Daniel Boone

Auger motor overload: Check wires and wire connections to the auger motor.

Low voltage: try different power source.

Igniter overload: Try disconnecting the igniter (red wires) and see if code goes away. If the code remains the control board is the issue, and needs to be replaced.

Failure to ignite: Clean out the burn pot and retry. If that is not successful, find out if pellets are feeding during start up, and if the igniter gets hot.

Electrical short.

1. It is important to unplug the unit before you start looking over any parts.
2. Unscrew the 2 Philips head screws (or hexabolts) on the front of the control panel and pull the control panel out towards you. You may let the panel hang.
3. Using a can of computer cleaner thoroughly blow off the back of the control board.
4. Reattach control board and test the unit.

If this hasn’t solved your issue you will need to check the wiring for the combustion fan.

1. Locate the combustion fan under the back side of the bottom of the grill.
2. The blue wires located inside the white sheathe operate the combustion fan. Check to be sure those connections are secure and are not melted or burnt.
3. If the wiring or the fan itself is damaged you will need a new one. You can order the part here.

If all wiring to the combustion fan looks correct you will need to check the wiring to the hopper fan.

1. Look up under the hopper and locate the 2 black wires attached to the hopper fan. These wires connect with 2 blue wires using in-line connectors. Ensure that those connections do not appear to be damaged in any way.
2. If wiring is damaged, please contact technical support at 1-800-603-3398.

Thermal sensor.

1. It is important to unplug the unit before you start looking over any parts.
2. Unscrew the 2 philips head screws (or hexabolts) on the front of the control panel and pull the control panel out towards you. You may let the panel hang.
3. Locate the small two pin plug on the back of the control panel.
4. Check to be sure that plug is securely installed. It is a good idea to disconnect the plug and reattach it firmly.
5. Inspect the wires and be sure they are not bent or damaged.
6. If this has not resolved the issue your unit will require a new thermal sensor. You can order a new thermal sensor here.

No food detected.

Make sure meat probe is securely inserted into control board with no kinks in the wire. If this doesn’t resolve the “NFD” code your grill will require a new meat probe. You can order a new meat probe here.

Possible causes (you may see an FAL message when this occurs):

• There could be too much ash in the firebox. Wait until it cools off, and clean out the ash.
• Pellets may have overfilled the firebox. Never turn the grill off and on repeatedly, as this will fill the firebox with pellets. The igniter cannot light the pellets unless air can flow freely through the combustion chamber.
• Combustion fan was not operating. Check to make sure the fan blades turn freely and that it runs on Cycle 2 of the 0-1- 2-3 sequence. Replace if necessary.
• The firebox could be empty because the auger has not fed pellets into it. Refer “My auger is jamming” under the troubleshooting tab.
• If there is no ash buildup, the fans work properly, and fresh pellets are feeding in, your igniter is out and the grill will require a replacement igniter.

A good cleaning can go a long way every once and awhile. We recommend cleaning out the grill after every bags of pellets burnt. A shop vac will do the trick. Always make sure the grill is cool. Remove the grates, grease trays, and heat shield. Vacuum the bottom of the grill and inside the fire box until it is completely clear.

You can disconnect and reconnect the alarm from the back of the control panel. If the beeping persists, your alarm is broken and can be replaced. You can purchase the low pellet alarm here.

*The low pellet alarm is not necessary for the grills functionality. You can leave the Alarm disconnected and continue cooking.

When your grill goes through its startup process, it is not unusual to see a great deal of smoke especially when the fans start the fire. Once you reach the default temperature of 150 degrees, you are in a smoke setting. Traditional smoke settings will go up to 225 degrees. In this range of temperatures, you will see a steady flow of smoke as the grill is feeding more pellets into the firebox at the loss of temperature. As your grill is maintaining temps, you will not see as much smoke. As you increase the temperature controller above 225 all the way up to 500 degrees, you will see even less smoke as you reach into barbecue temperatures, due to the highly flame.

Note: Generally, you get more smoke at lower temps than at high ones. That being said, pellets burn extremely efficiently because of their shape and density, so they will not produce as much smoke as a stick burner.

1. Check your power source, it is possible your GFCI or breaker has tripped, cutting power to the grill.
2. It is important to unplug the unit before you start looking over any parts.
3. Unscrew the 2 Philips head screws (or hexabolts) on the front control panel and pull the panel out towards you. You may let the panel hang.
4. Take a look on the back of the “Power” switch and make sure the wire clips have not come loose.

If this hasn’t solved your issue you will need to check the fuse.

1. One of the red wires coming from the main plug on the control board has a black fuse holder (shown in picture).
2. Using two hands rotate the fuse holder counter clockwise until it opens.
3. Inspect that the fuse is not burnt, broken, and that the filament is intact.

At times, the wires underneath your hopper assembly will shift and block your auger motor fan. Take a look underneath your grill for a wire obstruction and simply move it away from your auger fan blade. This will end the clicking noise.

If your grill is making a clicking noise and the auger does not run, most likely there is a stripped gear in the gearbox, and the auger motor will have to be replaced. You can buy parts here.

Turn the grill into cycle “0” (first stage of the normal start-up procedure) and take a look at the little white fan attached to the end of the auger motor. If the fan isn’t running, or runs momentarily before it comes to a stop, you have an auger jam.

If the fan spins but you don’t have pellets feeding into the burn pot, you either have pellets bridged up over the intake for the auger tube or something broken within your auger assembly. You can purchase a replacement here.

If you determined that your auger is jammed, you can try to work the affected pellets through the auger tube to clear out the jam.

Remove all the pellets from the hopper as well as the grease tray and heat shield from the body of the grill.

Turn the grill into cycle “0” (first stage of normal start-up procedure) and simultaneously tap the auger tube with a mallet or small hammer to help alleviate the jam. Repeat this process until the auger is totally clear.

Sometimes if a grill is left out in the weather for a prolonged period of time, any pellets left inside the auger tube may absorb moisture and harden into a concrete-like substance. If this happens, you will likely need to clear out your auger tube.

Before taking apart the hopper assembly, it is a good idea to try a couple of faster methods to clear the tube:

• Take out the grease tray and heat shields. Put the grill in cycle 0 (turn the unit on), and tap lightly on the auger tube with either a hammer, or a similar device. Sometimes this is enough to free up whatever is jamming the auger. If the auger hasn’t fed any pellets by cycle 1, switch off the grill. While the grill is unplugged, Empty the pellets out of the hopper until you can see the auger, (see photo) plug in your grill and try again. If neither of these work, move onto the next instructions.

Auger removal

Tools you will need:

• 10 mm wrench.
• Philips-head screwdriver.

1. Unplug unit from the wall.
2. Take all pellets out of the hopper (if not already out).
3. Remove the two Philips-head screws from the temperature control (see photo).
4. Pull the temperature control out and remove both plugs from the top corners.
5. Next, pull apart the white multiplug behind the temperature control. Set the controller off to the side.
6. Using the 10 mm wrench, unscrew the 4 bolts which hold the pellet hopper.
7. Gently slide the hopper up and off to the left, placing it on either a bucket, or chair (or anything else comparable). (see photo) Be careful not to pull any wires too far.
8. Locate the cotter-pin which connects the auger motor to the auger. Straighten out the free ends of the pin, and pull it out of the hole (see photo).
9. Next, you’ll unscrew the two 10 mm bolts which hold the motor bracket in place (see photo). Once these are out, gently set the motor off to the side.
10. At this point, you are free to maneuver the auger in order to free it up. Many times, just sticking a screwdriver through the cotter-pin hole will give you enough torque to unjam the auger(see photo). You may also grab onto the end of the auger with vice grips, and attempt to free it that way.
11. Once the jam is cleared, (see photo) you may put the grill back together. This is exactly the opposite of removal.
12. Before operation, ensure that the auger tube is primed with pellets.

1. It is normal for fans to pulsate in order to maintain the grills temperature. No need for concern if your fan is not blowing at a constant speed.
2. Using your finger, flick the fan to be sure that it spins freely and does not appear to have any visible damage. If there is any damage to the blade your grill will require a new combustion fan. You can order that here.
3. The blue wires located inside the white sheathe operate the combustion fan. Check to be sure those connections are secure and are not melted or burned.

Never just use the ON/OFF switch to turn the grill off. instead, hold the down arrow to lower the temperature to 150 F. Release the button and press it once again to enter “FAN” mode. The grill will automatically power down after the “FAN” mode ends. At that time, you may use the ON/OFF switch to cut power to the grill.

The first thing we’ll need to do is reset your grill and attempt an update.

There are two reasons we want to focus on updating:

1. Ensures you have the latest firmware, older firmware versions do not support WiFi mode.
2. Being able to perform an update will mean that we have been able to get the grill on your home WiFi. If WiFi mode still doesn’t work after that then we know it’s a problem locating the grill but not a problem getting the grill on the home WiFi.

So what I’d like you to do is confirm the following after performing a reset of the grill and attempt an update:

1. Make sure you have tried resetting your router, many times this is all it takes.
2. Make sure the GMG network has a strong signal when standing next to your home router. We need to make sure range is not an issue and the grill antennae is not damaged.
3. Make sure you are only using the 2.4 GHz band on your dual band router. The grill does not work with 5.0 GHz networks.
4. Make sure there is no ‘!’ (pre 6.0 firmware) in the SSID or password, to be safe use letters and numbers only until you get it working. (Really old versions of the firmware do not accept any special characters)
5. Make sure you are using WPA (WPA2_AES preferred) encryption for the password. Some routers using WEP have been known not to work with the grill and WPA is the current standard and more secure than WEP.
6. Make sure your password is less than 40 characters (pre 6.4 firmware, 6.4 supports up to 64 characters)

You can find all the details about server mode. Click Here

Often times your heat shield will get positioned to far to the left, which deflects to much heat to the right side of your grill. This makes it impossible for you thermal sensor to get proper readings, and will cause your grill to run at a higher temperature than it displays. Simply reposition your heat shield further to the right to correct this issue.

This also might happen on a hot day, similar to how your car can be hotter inside than it is outside. The grill needs to produce enough heat to keep the fire going, and rarely, on hot and windy days, the inside temperature may exceed the set temperature. Opening the lid for a few minutes at a time will normally solve this issue.

Possible causes (you may see an FAL message when this occurs):

• There could be too much ash in the firebox. Wait until it cools off, and clean out the ash.
• Pellets may have overfilled the firebox. Never turn the grill off and on repeatedly, as this will fill the firebox with pellets. The igniter cannot light the pellets unless air can flow freely through the combustion chamber.
• Combustion fan was not operating. Check to make sure the fan blades turn freely and that it runs on Cycle 2 of the 0-1- 2-3 sequence. Replace if necessary.
• The firebox could be empty because the auger has not fed pellets into it. Refer “My auger is jamming” under the troubleshooting tab.
• If there is no ash buildup, the fans work properly, and fresh pellets are feeding in, your igniter is out and the grill will require a replacement igniter.

You must be within your home WiFi network’s range to start the grill.

The first thing we’ll need to do is reset your grill and attempt an update.

There are two reasons we want to focus on updating:

1. Ensures you have the latest firmware, older firmware versions do not support WiFi mode.
2. Being able to perform an update will mean that we have been able to get the grill on your home WiFi. If WiFi mode still doesn’t work after that then we know it’s a problem locating the grill but not a problem getting the grill on the home WiFi.

Confirm the following after performing a reset of the grill and attempt an update:

1. Make sure you have tried resetting your router, many times this is all it takes.
2. Make sure the GMG network has a strong signal when standing next to your home router. We need to make sure range is not an issue and the grill antennae is not damaged.
3. Make sure you are only using the 2.4 GHz band on your dual band router. The grill does not work with 5.0 GHz networks.
4. Make sure there is no ‘!’ (pre 6.0 firmware) in the SSID or password, to be safe use letters and numbers only until you get it working. (Really old versions of the firmware do not accept any special characters)
5. Make sure you are using WPA (WPA2_AES preferred) encryption for the password. Some routers using WEP have been known not to work with the grill and WPA is the current standard and more secure than WEP.
6. Make sure your password is less than 40 characters (pre 6.4 firmware, 6.4 supports up to 64 characters)

You can find all the details about server mode. Click Here

Lbs. per hour*

Davy Crockett: 0.3-2.0
Daniel Boone: 0.5-2.5
Jim Bowie: 0.75-3.0

*Depends on ambient temperature, wind, how often the lid gets opened and closed, and other variables.

Federal law prohibits such a requirement. We do, however, recommend that you use ours to maximize the performance of your grill. If you choose to use other pellets, please use only food-grade hardwood grilling pellets. Do not use softwood pellets, some of them contain phenols that will be harmful to your health.

Yes, it will make it much easier to clean.

Total Range: 150-500 F (550F on the Davy Crockett)

Popular designations:
Smoke: 150-220 F
Barbecue: 225-275 F
Roast: 280-375 F
Grill: 380-475 F
Sear: 480-500 F (550F on the Davy Crockett)

We do not offer a rotisserie attachment. Our grills cook through convection, which circulates air around the food giving you rotisserie style cooking without extra equipment.

Never use the ON/OFF switch to turn the grill off. instead, press and hold the down arrow to lower the temperature to 150 F. Release the button and press it again to enter “FAN” mode. The grill will power itself down after the “FAN” mode has ended. At that time, you may use the ON/OFF switch to cut power to the grill.

We recommend clean, dry, inside storage in the original bags or a waterproof storage container.

We do not recommend using our grills in the rain because of their electrical components.

Food cooks by three methods:

Conduction: food heats by contact with a hot surface such as the grate on the grill or a pan.

Convection: hot air molecules bounce around inside the grill cavity and barrage the food.

Radiation: infrared rays, if you use GMG’s open flame technology, heat the food.

The grill’s thermal sensor retrieves data from inside the grill. The computer on the control panel analyzes the data and responds by adjusting the airflow inside the grill and the pellet flow into the firebox. Here’s the crux: the data gathered by the PK100 platinum sensor can be erratic. Think about all of the things that affect this data – the cover being opened and closed, wind, cold food, grease splattering on the drip tray, humidity, altitude, and even how level the grill is (which can affect pellet flow into the firebox – gravity!) So the computer receives all of this data, averages it over time, and provides a reasonably accurate display of the overall temperature inside your grill. This is why an instant air temperature reading from a 3rd party product such as Maverick, does not really provide much useful information. Your food cooks, as we’ve learned, by a combination of all three methods. The instant reading tells you only one piece of information from a tiny portion of the total space inside the grill cavity. it does not tell you the whole picture. A reading from one cubic millimeter of a cavity in which there are about 83 million cubic millimeters is not a microcosm of the cavity temperature.

Do not use your grill with less than 3’ (36”) clearance from any combustible object or surface.

Yes we make thermal blankets for all models.

We recommend about every large bags of pellets. A shop vac will do the trick. Always make sure the grill is cool. Vacuum the bottom of the grill, focusing on getting the fire box clear.

Depending on ambient temperature, the grill can take from 15-45 minutes to cool down after it exits FAN mode.

• Many factors affect the left-to-right temperatures inside the grill. Prevailing winds may cool down one quadrant of the grill. Outside air temperature may require more air infusion from the combustion fan in order to maintain the set temperature. Cold food on one side or the other may produce lower temperatures in that area. This phenomenon would happen in any brand of pellet grill, in spite of what their marketing departments would have you believe. Fortunately, Green Mountain has a solution in its moveable heat shield.
• In most cases, centering the “V” on the underside of your heat shield over the firebox will provide satisfactory results from side to side.
• If you move the heat shield to the left, the temperature on the right will increase, and vice-versa.
• Some people still feel more comfortable using instant readings from an instrument such as a Maverick than with the computer’s averages. If you wish to adjust your grill’s temperature to match your 3rd party device, move the heat shield to the left (makes the Maverick’s display’s read hotter) or to the right (makes it cooler.) These are small changes to get it dialed in. Pushing the heat shield left a very small amount from the center will direct the flame away from the thermal sensor causing it to read less heat. When it reads lower, it will raise the temp of the grill overall. Making it more accurate to what the grill is reading.
• Make small changes of about 1/8” to get accurate adjustments.

Ambient temperature plays a role, but it should reach the maximum temperature within 15-30 minutes.

GMG’s limited warranty is 2 years. Click here to read about our warranty. Click here to register your grill.

Click here to go to our dealer locator.

Click here to go to our dealer locator.

JB 189 lb. 53x22x31
DB 155 lb. 42x22x31
DC 68 lb. 29x14x20